how to rock a white tie event

White tie is the top level of formal dress. It is the most refined and elegant option a man can wear. This style goes back to the 19th century and is often called full evening dress or evening tails. Even today, white tie means you dress your best for very special events like royal banquets and diplomatic ceremonies.

a man wearing full white tie outfit in a formal setting

White Tie Masterclass

If you've checked out our suit style guide, you already know a thing or two about formal menswear. Now think of this as your masterclass in white tie - taking formality to the next level with everything you need to know about this dress code.

Core Components of the White Tie Ensemble

A proper white tie outfit comes with a few key pieces. Each one has its own clear rules, so you don't really have a choice to change them up. That strict approach is what makes white tie so unique and timeless.

Suit

Tailcoat

The main piece of a white tie outfit is the black wool tailcoat. It has long tails that reach your knees and a short front that cuts at the waist. Unlike modern suit jackets or tuxedos, you never button a tailcoat. Its design is meant to show off the white waistcoat worn underneath.

White Waistcoat

A crisp white waistcoat is a must. It comes in cotton marcella or piqué fabric and is designed without a back to keep it light. The fit has to be on point.

The bottom edge of the waistcoat needs to be lined-up perfectly with your trouser waistband, so it's never visible below the front of your tailcoat.

White Pique-bib Shirt

Your shirt should be crisp white and sharp. It comes with a wing or standard collar that you can either detach or keep attached, depending on your style. The shirt also features a firm piqué bib front that gives it a solid structure. The collar stands straight with small, pointed wings that fold outward, creating the perfect frame for your bow tie.

White Bow Tie

A hand-tied white bow tie is a must. Pre-tied ties look fake and just don't work for a true white tie event.

Make sure your bow tie matches the fabric of your waistcoat for a consistent, polished look.

classic black white-tie evening trousers displayed flat against a pure-white background

Black Trousers

You need high-waisted black trousers with two satin stripes along the sides.

They should sit high, and ideally held in place with braces rather than a belt. Braces are best because they can be completely hidden by your waistcoat, for a sleeker look.

Shoes

traditional white tie shoes

Opera Pumps

Sometimes called "court shoes", they have

Low-cut design with exposed instep
Patent leather finish
Grosgrain ribbon bow on the upper
No laces (slip-on design)

A pair of classic black patent leather formal shoes. The shoes have a glossy finish with a smooth surface, black laces, and a rounded toe. The interior lining is red, visible around the shoe opening. The shoes are shown from a front angle, side by side, on a white background with soft lighting to highlight the shine and texture of the patent leather.

modern but still acceptable alternative White Tie Shoes

Patent Oxford Shoes

These shoes are sometimes called "patent leather Balmorals"

Closed-lacing system
High-gloss patent leather finish
Plain toe cap (no broguing or decorative perforations)

Accessories

Essential Accessories

White gloves (cotton or kid leather)
White pocket square (simple fold, barely visible)
Mother-of-pearl or silver shirt studs and cufflinks

Traditional Optional Items

A dress watch on a chain (no wristwatches traditionally)

How to Choose the Right Pieces

Suit Fit

When it comes to white tie, fit is everything. A tailcoat that doesn't sit right can make you look like you're in a children's dress-up costume instead of dressed in elegant, formal attire.

Male model wearing a black tailcoat standing straight with smooth shoulders, sleeves ending at the wrist, and tails hanging evenly behind him

tailcoat fit

Your tailcoat should sit nicely on your shoulders and chest without feeling tight. The sleeves finish neatly at your wrist, and the tails drop evenly down to the back of your knees.

waistcoat fit

Your waistcoat should fit just right.

Make sure its bottom edge lines up exactly with the top of your trousers for a smooth, seamless look. It needs to sit firm on your chest without any bulges or gaps.

Male model wearing high-waisted black trousers with a slight break at the shoes, standing naturally

trouser fit

Wear your trousers high at your natural waist, around your navel rather than your hip bones.

They should fall to your shoes with a slight fold where the fabric meets your footwear. This creates a clean, elegant line and prevents your pants from looking too short or bunching at the ankles.

Material Quality

Invest in items made of fabrics that keep their shape and catch the light just right. Quality materials look sharper, last longer, and give you that polished edge.

Macro shot of white marcella piqué fabric showing waffle-pattern texture, Close-up of white cotton bib-front shirt fabric showing textured weave, Close-up of black wool suiting

Full Suit fabrics

Tailcoat: Super 120s or higher wool with a slight sheen
Shirt: 100% cotton with a sturdy, stiff bib front
Waistcoat: Cotton marcella or piqué that matches your bow tie
Trousers: Same wool as your tailcoat with proper satin stripes

fabric Color Consistency

Make sure your shirt, waistcoat and bow tie all share the exact same shade of white.

A creamy waistcoat next to a crisp white shirt will stand out the moment the lights hit. Keeping your whites in sync gives you a clean, sharp look under any formal lighting.

Prepare Your White Tie Outfit - 7 Steps

White tie may seem complicated but if you follow each step in order, every piece falls into place.

Close-up of hands buttoning a white dress shirt and inserting studs, with cufflinks visible

1. start with the shirt

Slip into your formal shirt and button up the front, inserting the three or four studs as you go.

Fasten your cufflinks, then straighten the collar so it feels snug but comfy. Once you move on to the waistcoat and tailcoat, you won’t want to fidget with the shirt again.

Close-up of hands clipping silk suspenders onto the waistband of high-waisted trousers

2. trousers and suspenders

Pull on your high‑waisted trousers so they rest around your navel, not your hips.

Attach silk braces in white to hold the waistband snug.

You don't need a belt - your braces will keep everything in place under the waistcoat.

Close-up of hands fastening a white waistcoat over trousers, showing smooth front alignment

3. slip on waistcoat

Put on your white waistcoat and fasten every button right to the bottom.

Make sure the bottom edge sits exactly at the top of your trousers so no shirt shows.

Smooth the front so it lies flat across your chest.
When it looks neat you’re all set to add your tailcoat.

Close-up of hands tying a white bow tie around a collar, showing symmetrical loops

4. Drap and tie the bow tie

Drape the bow tie around your neck so the band sits under the collar points.
Cross one end over the other and pull it through to form the basic knot.

Gently pinch the center and shape each loop until both sides match.
Make sure the finished bow rests squarely between the collar wings and stays snug.

Step-by-Step Bow Tie Tutorial

Close-up of hands pulling a black tailcoat onto shoulders over a waistcoat

5. Wear Your tailcoat

Slip on your tailcoat and settle it onto your shoulders.

Make sure the shoulders lie flat with no folds or wrinkles

Check that the front panels meet the bottom edge of your waistcoat.
Let the tails hang straight and line up evenly behind you.

Close-up of a hand slipping foot into a shiny black patent leather dress shoe

6. Slip on Your shoes

Slip into your black patent leather shoes.
Polish them until they gleam like glass.

7. final accessories

Slide on your white gloves.
Fold a crisp white pocket square so it peeks out just enough from your breast pocket.

Pin on your cufflinks or pocket watch chain to finish the look.

Take one last mirror check to make sure every detail sits right.

Your White-Tie Challenge

Are you ready to suit up and join the ranks of the well-tailored? Here’s your action plan:

Find an event - whether it’s a gala, opera night, or charity ball.
Lock down your look - rent or buy the essentials we’ve covered.
Show it off - post a photo of you in tails, tag @Malesuave, and tell us what drew you to your first white-tie night.

Share your event picks and style plans in the comments and let’s trade tips for looking sharp !!

If you liked this one, these might hit the spot.